The soy sauce artisans making the Chinese condiment with a dash of attitude

For many people of the Asian diaspora, food provides a tangible link to heritage that can sometimes feel distant.

Soy sauce is one of the best examples.
While familiar red-capped, mass-produced bottles of soy sauce dominate supermarket shelves, a small community of artisans is choosing to make the condiment in different, slower ways.
Ramona Lee – also known as “The Soy Sauce Lady” – and Mike Fung of Cinwaan Soy Sauce are hand-crafting the liquid gold in rainy Sweden and sun-drenched Australia,...